Cacao in China

Chocolate may be the world’s favourite snack today, but it wasn’t always that way. It originally began as a sacred Mesoamerican delicacy over 2,000 years ago that slowly made its way through Europe and Africa before finally reaching Asia. So while chocolate may be everywhere today, China’s chocolate history began more recently than you might think. 

History of Cacao in China

China’s first brush with chocolate likely began in the late 17th century. But the Chinese weren’t yet consuming chocolate at the time. Instead, they were making porcelain pots and cups for chocolate, which was historically enjoyed as a hot drink. Chinese chocolate pots and cups were all the rage in Europe, and were exported in huge quantities by the Dutch East India Company. In fact, almost 10,000 Chinese chocolate cups and saucers were discovered in the wreck of the Geldermalsen, a Dutch East India Company ship that sank in 1752. 

Although some historical records show that chocolate may have been introduced to China in the 18th and 19th centuries, it never took off the way it did in Europe. While the invention of the cocoa press and milk chocolate in the early 19th century helped chocolate become more widespread in Europe, these inventions did little to increase chocolate’s popularity in China. Why? Because Chinese cuisine is far less dairy-focused than Western cuisine, so milk chocolate just had less appeal to the Chinese population. Though some shops in China sold chocolate in the early 20th century, it’s likely that they were bought mostly by Europeans living in China rather than by the locals.  

Chocolate only began gaining popularity in China in the 1990s due to a few key factors: rapid economic growth, an expanding middle class, and increased Western influence. Chocolate also had to adapt to local tastes. Because snacks in China tend to be salty, many Chinese consumers found chocolate bars to be too sweet. That’s why you’ll often find that chocolate in China is dark, and sold in small, bite-sized portions.

Popular Chocolates and Chocolatiers in China

Because chocolate is still relatively new in China, the biggest chocolate sellers in China are big international brands like Mars, Nestlé, and Ferrero Rocher. Still, there are a few independent Chinese chocolate brands making their mark in the world of chocolate:

• Dedicated Chocolate: A Hong Kong based bean-to-bar chocolatier using high quality, sustainably sourced cocoa to produce a variety of specialty chocolates. They produce chocolate with a variety of unique flavors, such as Oolong tea, matcha, and turmeric. 

• Nibbo Chocolate: A bean-to-bar chocolate company founded in Shanghai with over 100 chocolate varieties, like green apple, yuzu, and honey. 

• Slowww Melt: A chocolatier in Shanghai built around the philosophy that a chocolate bar should offer a relaxing, mindful sensory experience. Their chocolate offerings range from a variety of Chinese flavors, including tangerine peel and lime sichuan. 

Chinese Chocolate Culture

In Chinese culture, the exchange of gifts holds significant cultural value. Luxury chocolates in China are therefore often fancifully wrapped so that they can be presented as gifts for special occasions and holidays such as:

• Valentine’s Day: Around the world, this holiday just isn’t complete without chocolate, and China is no exception. 

• Qixi Festival: A Chinese festival celebrating romantic love, where (borrowing from Western influence) chocolates have become a common gift for that special someone. 

• 520 day: In Chinese, the numbers 520 sounds like the phrase “wǒ ài nǐ”, or “I love you”. Accordingly, this holiday is often known as Chinese Valentine’s Day, and is another chance to celebrate romantic love with the gift of chocolate.

What the Future Holds

Because cacao trees require very specific conditions to thrive, growing cacao is impossible in most parts of China. But China's tropical island of Hainan is the exception. 

Already known for growing a variety of plants like mango, vanilla, litchi, coffee, and jackfruit, Hainan is China’s agricultural hub for tropical crops. In recent years, cacao farming has taken over Hainan, and Hainan even began exporting beans internationally in 2020. Hainan cacao beans are prized for their unique, nutty flavour, making them highly coveted by premium chocolatiers. So despite it's short history with chocolate, China has already begun making its mark on the world of cocoa.

Although chocolate is relatively new to China, one thing is clear about their chocolate culture: it’s uniquely and proudly Chinese. From flavours inspired by Chinese teas and fruits, to their innovative approach to growing cacao, China has made chocolate entirely their own.