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Imagine a place in which the air carries the fragrance of earth and vegetation, enhanced by the lingering humidity from recent rains. Towering trees cast a protective shade, instilling a sense of security. Above, branches bear the weight of mangos, rambutans, mameys and avocados, forming a vibrant canopy against the blue sky.

Among this nature, its inhabitants do not go unnoticed. Toucans, quetzals, and hummingbirds flit about, infusing the journey with colors and melodies. The crackle of dry leaves draws our attention downward, revealing industrious ants transporting their treasures through the vast tropical forest.

As we go on deeper, the jungle’s true allure unfolds: the cocoa trees. Their modest stature belies the significance of their existence. Delicate light pink flowers dangle from their trunks and branches, clearly these blossoms evolve into “chilillos,” baby fruits that gradually mature into sizable cocoa pods, resembling the oversized papayas.

Dry and fresh cocoa leaves by Fernanda Schlack Barbagelata

With the help of a machete, we delicately cut a pod, feeling its weight in our hands as a testament to its significance. Progressing through the cacao plantation, an array of cocoa pods presents itself, each displaying a spectrum of colors: greens, light yellows, oranges, even vibrant purple and fuchsias. Occasionally, we spot one with a telltale hole in it, evidence that a squirrel indulged in a morning feast, as cocoa pulp is one of their favorite breakfasts!

Towards the surrounding area we can appreciate the orchard with vanilla, chilis, cinnamon, peppers, achiote, and an abundance of fruits, vegetables and spices, growing or waiting to be harvested .

In this tranquil haven, the Vila-Contreras family enjoy sights, sounds and aromas while working immersed in a nature masterpiece: their ancient cacao farm.

Without family there is no cocoa! Imagine a place in which the air carries the fragrance of earth and vegetation, enhanced by the lingering humidity from recent rains. Towering trees cast a protective shade, instilling a sense of security. Above, branches bear the weight of mangos, rambutans, mameys and avocados, forming a vibrant canopy against the blue sky. 1

Just harvested cocoa pods by Fernanda Schlack Barbagelata

Vila-Contreras history and daily life

“Hacienda Napaná” is the name of their cocoa farm, commonly referred to as “El rancho”. Martha Contreras and Rafael Vila oversee this impressive project, boasting a lineage that traces back to 1755. They represent the ninth generation dedicated to cocoa cultivation. The custodianship of this legacy continues with their two daughters, Andrea and Elena, marking the tenth generation devoted to this ancient mesoamerican crop.

They describe their farm as a multigenerational polyculture, whose roots date back to 1873. A multigenerational plantation has many benefits for the preservation of both native cocoa varieties, as well as ancestral production practices and cultural aspects associated with farming practices, such as traditional recipes.

On the other side, polyculture, a traditional form of cocoa production in Mexico, consists of growing cocoa alongside other species, as mentioned in the initial description of this story. This practice also brings numerous benefits, including family food self-sufficiency, supplementary economic income, natural land regeneration and preservation of native species. The family, deeply connected to the land, considers each member an integral part of the success of their plantation.

Rafa diligently tends to, and preserves the native cocoa trees of the region. He also takes care of other plants that contribute to its polyculture. And, collaborating with Martha, he oversees and executes the post-harvest cocoa protocol, a pivotal stage in specialty cocoa production.

Hacienda Napaná native’s cocoa by Fernanda Schlack Barbagelata

The cocoa post-harvest process comprises two essential phases: fermentation and drying. In the initial stage, Rafa places the cocoa beans into wooden boxes for several days. During this period, yeasts and other microorganisms thriving on the “mucílago” (Spanish term for cocoa pulp) instigate intricate chemical transformations in the cocoa beans, giving rise to the precursors of the flavors and aromas found in chocolate.

Following fermentation, the drying process begins, a critical step aimed at reducing the moisture content of the beans, making them suitable for use in chocolate and other products. For the Vila Contrera family, drying cocoa is a particularly challenging process, especially during the rainy season, since sunlight is indispensable to it.

Continuing with the family’s members roles, Martha is a true multitasker who handles a myriad of responsibilities. Her primary focus, however, is to manage administration and sales of the farm. Anyone seeking to communicate with the family reaches out to her, who consistently and warmly responds to any query or need.

At the early age of 14, Andrea holds the distinction of being the youngest person certified as a level 1 and 2 taster by the International Institute of Cacao and Chocolate Tasting. This certification enables her to do the organoleptic evaluation of the farm’s native cocoa beans and their cocoa products.

Meanwhile, at 10 years old, Elena is the guardian of the farm’s fauna. She harbors a profound love for insects, amphibians, reptiles or any animal surrounding their plantation. Elena joyfully explores the cacao farm, seeking both fun and knowledge about life.

Hacienda Napaná family in 2019 by Fernanda Schlack Barbagelata

Generational relay

This idyllic paradise is situated in Pichucalco, a region in the northern part of the state of Chiapas, renowned as the second-largest cocoa-producing state in Mexico1.
The area is widely recognized for its ancient tradition in the cultivation, harvesting, and consumption of cocoa.

For the Vila-Contreras family, preserving this vast tradition, love, and passion for the emblematic cocoa bean is imperative. In order to achieve this, they believe in the essential role of generational succession, encouraging new generations to continue cocoa production.

In pursuit of this goal, Martha, Rafa, Andrea and Elena constantly engage in various activities, both daily and sporadic. Notably, they usually participate in cocoa and chocolate festivals, share traditional recipes through their social media accounts and host a podcast called “Tardes de cacao”2 (Cocoa Afternoons), in which they narrate stories about their work.

The guiding motto for the Hacienda Napaná’s family, shaping both their life and work, is ¡Sin familia no hay cacao! (Without family there is no cocoa!) and they truly are an admirable family

Hacienda Napaná family during Cacao Para Todos festival in 2023 by Fernanda Schlack Barbagelata

This note was written based on a visit to Hacienda Napaná in 2019. Multiple conversations with Martha, Rafa, Andrea and Elena between 2019 and 2024. Andrea ‘s dissertation in 2022 during the Cacao Para Todos festival. And their podcast Tardes de Cacao.

1 José López Ganem, «Diagnóstico del Mercado del Cacao en México 2022», Comunidades Prósperas y Sostenibles en el Sureste de México (Fine Cacao and Chocolate Institute, 23 de septiembre de 2022), https://pdf.usaid.gov/pdf_docs/PA00ZWQD.pdf.
2 https://open.spotify.com/show/0gqElAWrxg9J5kO7wWrj1e?si=i7vtiB9wTb2mhQvcBIv23w.

Fernanda Schlack Barbagelata Fernanda is a Chilean woman whose main interests are gastronomy, food culture and food research and innovation. She has been working in the cocoa and chocolate industry since 2016, is founder of SerCacao Project and Project Manager of Vive Chocolate Club. 

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