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About rhythms of a cocoa-farm life

About rhythms of a cocoa-farm life Living in a crowded city can be overwhelming; everything moves at a rapid pace, high buildings impose shadows, city lights obscure the night sky, and going from one place to another can be challenging. Days often pass quickly one after another, and it is during such moments that, sometimes, we just wish for the tranquility of the countryside. 2

Living in a crowded city can be overwhelming; everything moves at a rapid pace, high buildings impose shadows, city lights obscure the night sky, and going from one place to another can be challenging. Days often pass quickly one after another, and it is during such moments that, sometimes, we just wish for the tranquility of the countryside.

However, making a radical change of lifestyle moving from a frenetic city to a quiet and peaceful farm can be really challenging as well. Adapting to the unhurried rhythms of nature is no easy feat, especially for those who are accustomed to valuing the immediacy of urban living.

Alma Delia (@lasdeliascacao) describes herself as a city girl. She was born in Tabasco (a southern state of Mexico) but spent an important part of her life in Mexico City, one of the most crowded cities in the world. She has studied architecture and worked in the hotel industry at the beginning stages of her career. But it was in 2020, during COVID-19 pandemic, when Alma made the decision to return to her roots, giving a change to her life by immersing herself in a cocoa plantation in the Mexican rainforest.

Although cocoa has always been present in Alma’s life, during her childhood she associated it with vacations and family visits. In contrast, nowadays, it has become not just a part but the focal point of her present and future. Finca Las Delias is the name of her cocoa farm and home.

Located in Comalcalco, Tabasco, Alma arrived at the farm just during harvest time, a once-a-year event from April to July. She has to face the challenges of cocoa processing, her days were spent working hard in the fields, while her nights were dedicated to studying, especially the post-harvest processes: cocoa fermentation and sun-drying. Through this, she started to understand the significance of careful observation and trusting her senses in comprehending cocoa intricacies.

Though faced with initial challenges, Alma persevered. Over these four years, she has developed a sharp appreciation for the potent aroma of fermented cocoa. This aroma, characterized by being very strong and acetic, may even be unpleasant to some people, yet it serves as a sensory indicator for guiding this crucial stage. During the fermentation process, the development of chocolate flavors and color takes place.

With the discerning eyes of an architect, she also has designed a detailed plan of Finca Las Delias, showing the exact quantity and distribution of the different cocoa tree varieties present in her cacaotal. In the data collection she also included other crops which are in the plantation such as coffee, cinnamon, avocado, vanilla, chipilín (Crotalaria Longirostrata), achiote (Bixa Orellana), bananas, among others. This is an important tool to keep control and high standar of the production of every season.

Its search for exceptional quality cocoa beans has led it to explore different aspects of its value chain. One of the most important of these is the relationship with chocolate makers. For Alma, understanding their needs is fundamental to achieving good beans, and bonds based on trust are essential for a clear and effective commercial relationship.

Reflection after a long conversation

It is impressive to see how there is a symbiotic relation between life’s rhythm and the changing seasons. Tasks such as collecting pods, cutting and opening them, transporting to the fermentation boxes, moving the beans every determined hour, controlling the fermentation process for several days, drying the beans in the sun, and packaging them when ready, as well as transporting and shipping them, are just some of the activities required during the harvest time.

On the other hand, responsibilities such as controlling humidity and pests, strengthening the soil, and preparing for the next season occupy the rest of the year.
The description of the many activities during harvest time contrasts with the quieter yet crucial tasks in the non-harvest season, demonstrating the cyclical nature of farming.

By talking with Alma, it is evident that her realization about the passage of time and the resilience needed when working in synchrony with the land is something that has become important in her life. It serves as a reminder that agriculture, especially with crops like cocoa, demands a long-term perspective, where success may not be immediate.

The connection Alma establishes with the natural world and her dedication to cocoa production reflect a profound appreciation for the environment. Her passion could encourage new generations to work in the fields and dedicate themselves to this ancestral Mesoamerican crop.

Learning about cocoa farmers’ stories is really inspiring and can teach us so many things. By now, the importance of using all our senses by observing, smelling, touching and feeling to have a deep understanding and connection with nature is a lesson we should keep.

This note was written based on a video-call conversation with Alma in march 2024, while she was in the plantation.

Fernanda Schlack Barbagelata Fernanda is a Chilean woman whose main interests are gastronomy, food culture and food research and innovation. She has been working in the cocoa and chocolate industry since 2016, and is the founder of SerCacao.